IT 48 (oversized): Best for any size between an IT 46 - 36 Chest - S and a slim IT 52 - 42 Chest - L.
Helmut Lang biker parka from the A/W 1999-2000 collection. In vintage used condition with discolourations and scuffs. Made in Italy. RRP: $2060 (£1213)
A/W 1999-2000 is seen by many as one of Helmut Lang's most groundbreaking seasons, whose directional pieces are just as relevant today as when they were designed. Inspired by astronaut uniforms, motorcycle safety gear and rave subcultures, Lang created a subversively elegant and uncompromisingly modern universe that has since then inspired a long list of designers. Being the collection's signature pieces, biker-inspired garments were worn by both men and women in many runway looks. This substantial winter parka encapsulates the season's aggressive urban aesthetic, while its interior is fully lined with luxurious brushed alpaca.
The parka has a slightly oversized silhouette. Extremely elongated sleeves add a slightly nonchalant touch, while drawstrings and an interior belt can be used to give a more fitted shape to the waist. The slightly higher position of the belt on the back creates a very flattering contoured line. The front closes with a concealed metal zipper and buttons, leading up to a high funnel neck. The neckline features drawstrings, two long velcro straps, a hidden metal wire to adjust its shape and a removable alpaca insert that enhances its comfort while creating subtle contrast. Biker-inspired stitching adorns the elbows; the cuffs are finished with buttoned tabs. On the interior, the thick pile of the alpaca lining results in an exceptionally soft and smooth knit that is also very warm and pleasurable to wear. The exterior fabric is a soft cotton/polyester blend with a water-resistant coating. Thanks to years of wear, the fabric has gained a subtle patina and developed fades that complement the aesthetic of the piece.
The finishing of this piece is of a very high standard like all Helmut Lang outerwear, with several details that demonstrate its supreme execution. The sleeves have an intricate construction with articulated panels that closely follow the lines of the arms while allowing for easy movement. The armholes have a diamond-shape the functions like a gusset for further comfort, while eight metallic eyelets add aggressive detail. The large waist pockets secure with snap buttons and are constructed with a fold-over flap to ensure that their contents are never exposed to the elements. The interior is finished with Lang's typical rectangular patch pocket. The adjustable belt fastens with two snap buttons.
This extremely rare coat is one of the stand-out pieces from Lang's seminal A/W 1999-2000 collection. While it exhibits several signs of wear, its winter proof construction, hard-wearing materials and directional aesthetic will make it a cherished wardrobe staple for years to come.
